Andalusia, the autonomous community in the south of Spain, embodies the traditional artistry that imbues the ethos of the country. For Andalusia is the soul of Spain, and with its temperate climate, it makes beating the winter blues yet another reason to visit.
Spanish autonomous communities are akin to states in the US. Each autonomous community has a number of provinces, similar to US counties. And each province has a capital city, similar to a county seat in the US. For instance, Seville, the city, is the capital of Seville, the province; the city is also the capital of Andalusia.
Andalusia sits on Spain’s southern coast, and is home to eight provinces including Cádiz, Córdoba, Granada, Málaga, and Seville. Sporting a commanding 500-mile coastline—mostly made up of sandy beaches—it’s inconceivable that this region was once Spain’s most impoverished. Today, Andalusia enjoys a growing population as well as a robust economy, largely stemming from their tourism industry. And why not? The region boasts a thriving wine region, unrivaled museums, captivating towns and villages, and countless green spaces and beaches. What’s more, Andalusians are a diverse and welcoming people with a fervor for living. Throw in a little fortune-telling on the side, and you’ve got the substance for a delightful adventure.
Spain’s railway infrastructure makes getting to Adalusia from Madrid straightforward. Additionally, numerous direct flights to this region from Madrid are offered daily, with destinations to Seville, Jerez, Málaga, and Granada.
An enduring legacy
To understand the essence of Spanish culture, we must travel back in time. Most of the Iberian Peninsula was first developed by the Romans before the eighth century AD. The Umayyad conquest of Hispania began in 711, and its rule lasted through 1492. Spain, Portugal, and parts of southern France were influenced by these Berber, Arab, and Muslim conquerors. Known as al-Andalus, 80 percent of the peninsula was inhabited by Muslims who crossed the Strait of Gibraltar from north Africa.
During this 800-year period, medical, mathematical, agricultural, and architectural advancements were made. Elaborately designed mosques, palaces, and fortresses were erected, implementing styles such as the embellished horseshoe arch still seen today across much of Spain. These edifices cropped up throughout Islamic Iberia. However, after centuries of war, al-Andalus was pushed south. Subsequently, Spain’s Reconquest—a campaign to oust the Muslim kingdom—converted most mosques to Catholic churches.
Today, remnants of this indelible history reverberate, especially throughout Spain’s southern region. Mudéjar’s impact on cuisine and architecture is still alive and flourishing. For example, they introduced apricots, pomegranates, peaches, dates, eggplants, artichokes, saffron, and several spices to the peninsula. The aforementioned horseshoe arches, colorful zellij tilework, riad gardens, and arabesque surface decoration are a few of the persistent architectural influences.
During your travels in Andalusia, you’ll experience architecture, food, and art whose influence is more than 1400 years old.
Visiting other Andalusian areas
Whether via train, plane, bus, or car, traveling though Andalusia is extraordinary. And if you’re interested in day trips, many cities are within a two-hour journey by train from its capital city, Seville.
To absorb the charisma of Andalusia, visit Seville, Córdoba, Granada, Málaga, and Jerez de la Frontera. These Andalusian cities will leave a salty, smokey, and spicy flavor in your heart. Flights throughout Andalusia are available, however, lines at airport security are long, and your time spent on a plane will take away from your adventures in the countryside. Therefore, I suggest renting a car if you plan on staying in each city you visit.
Sevilla tiene un color especial
The song by Spanish duo, Los del Río, says it best: Sevilla—or Seville if you must—has a special color. Andalusia’s enigmatic capital is the best place to begin your journey through the south. Seville is the fourth largest city in Spain, but in Andalusia it reigns supreme. Bursting with Spanish pride and pageantry, this city was made famous by its colossal cathedral, lavish palaces, riad gardens, and tasty treats, all of which are archetypal examples of the Mudéjar culture prevalent throughout Andalusia.
If you’re only in Seville for the day, you’ll want to spend it exploring the casco antiguo, or old town. Here, you’ll savor countless tapas and relish in Seville’s time-honored attractions. Along with traditional Spanish tapas, you can try huevos a la flamenca—a classic Andalusian dish—at most pubs in this area. This huevos dish got its start as Maghreb Shakshouka, a 16th century north African dish. That’s when Spain occupied Tunisia and introduced tomatoes and peppers from the New World.
Be sure to take a leisure stroll through Parque Maria Luisa where you’ll see some of Seville’s prized structures. The park was made famous by its Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 and still houses many of its pavilions-turned-museums.
But Seville has so much more to offer visitors. Stay awhile, and experience the authenticity of this mystical city. For a deeper dive into this captivating destination, read my post, Sevilla for an Authentic Spanish Vibe.
The core of Córdoba
In an interior courtyard, neat rows of royal blue clay pots are carefully attached to white stucco walls. A cascade of green and flowering plants hang from their rims. It’s a widely circulated image, and with good reason: in Córdoba, these vertical gardens are as popular as flamenco dancers. These interior courtyards, with their orderly chaos of vegetation, have been designated as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. In fact, Córdoba celebrates this in their annual Fiesta de los Patios de Córdoba—a courtyard festival in May.
If you think that’s over the top, Córdoba’s entire historic center has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. And for good measure––it’s the city with the most World Heritage Sites. Within the historic center, Córdoba houses 300 mosques, rivaling Baghdad and Constantonople. It is also the best example of Mudéjar architecture still seen today.
Córdoba’s gorgeous attractions are perfectly suited for a day trip. When you arrive, take a taxi right to the Mezquita-Catedral, which will help you avoid becoming lost in Córdoba’s crevices. The mosque is jam packed with architectural details, buildings, arches, and embellishments in which you’ll want to immerse yourself. After the mosque, if your feet aren’t throbbing, explore the surrounding area. The Roman bridge is just south of the mosque and it’s worth a few Instagram photos.
If you get peckish, try La Posada Del Caballo Andaluz, serving tantalizing appetizers for the vegetarian in your party. The decor is traditional, and the food is decadent. And for a lovely terraza with authentic Andalusian cuisine, stop at Bodegas Mezquita Ribera.
A glimpse at Granada
Granada is snuggled up next to the splendid Sierra Nevada mountains. It’s a demure city with less than half of Seville’s population but no less dramatic. Dedicate at least two days to this mesmerizing city.
Granada’s fortress on a hill—a spectacular architectural feat—took hundreds of years to complete, nearly destroy, and restore. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, the Alhambra is Spain’s most popular tourist attraction. Not only is it a palace and a fortress, it’s a complex of historic buildings that its rulers continuously developed.
For a sublime view of the Alhambra, stay a couple of nights in the medieval Albaicín neighborhood. Vrbo has a variety of listings with fantastic floor plans and stunning views of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevadas. Albaicín is chock-full of enchanting cobblestone streets lined with white washed stone houses whose roofs are capped with clay barrel roof tiles.
The fortress is a 25-minute uphill walk through la Puerta de las Granadas. However, the journey might take you longer because the town is so picturesque that you’ll want to capture it for posterity. I’d save my legs and take a taxi to the ticket office. The Alhambra alone will take about four hours to discover, which includes a healthy amount of walking. There’s a lot to see, so hire a private tour guide to get you through efficiently and within a reasonable time frame.
While you’re in the area—if you’re outdoorsy—take an excursion through Sierra Nevada National Park. There’s plenty to do for the whole family.
Granada is nothing if not quirky. In the city center, surrounded by regal buildings and streets lined with naranjos, catch a glimpse of Isabel La Católica. Just north, along the expansive Gran Vía de Colón is the ornate Cathedral of Granada.
The magnificence of Málaga
Mar y montañas. The seabreeze rolling through la Costa del Sol seamlessly blends with the mountain air descending from the Monte de Málaga. This province invokes images of blissful sunbathers absorbing the midday sun while thrill seekers summit la Cresta de la Reina. This is Málaga: a soul-searching quest of the sea and mountains.
To get a glimpse of everything this destination offers, you should plan no less than a three-night stay. Begin by meandering the city streets at Catedral de la Encarnación de Málaga. Pro tip: when you’re in a new city in Spain, seek out its main church. Where the church is placed ultimately determines the layout of the main attractions. And Málaga is no different. In fact, there are six museums within an eight-minute walk of this cathedral, including the Picasso Museum.
There are many stately buildings in Málaga’s historic center. Too many to list, but just know that most of these grandiose edifices are within walking distance from the cathedral. Indeed, if you head south on Calle Císter, you’ll wind up at the epicenter of Spanish culture. This is where Renaissance architecture meets Ancient Rome meets Mudéjar elegance. Here, you’ll encounter the Teatro Romano de Málaga, the Alcazaba, the Ayuntamiento de Málaga building, and other stately structures.
There are also many plazas here. Take a stroll to la Plaza de la Merced. This lively city square doubles as a park and is home to a Picasso statue. Plaza de la Constitución is fantastic to explore because it leads to Calle Márques de Larios, a canvas-covered promenade. In fact, this area boasts a huge amount of pedestrian-only streets, which lead to dozens of shops, boutiques, and restaurants.
Aliment-ate
For a bite to eat way off the beaten path, explore the restaurants in the Soho neighborhood. Check out The Cereal Boom, whose quirky name fits this unusual eatery. This breakfast place looks like General Mills exploded inside, with hundreds of cereal boxes lining its shelves. But don’t be fooled by the marquee; this restaurant serves up tasty dessert treats, too. Live a little. After all, you’re on holiday.
Due west of the Plaza de la Marina, you’ll find an area ladened with trendy eats, bars, and boutique hotels. For a remarkable Italian meal, go to Atrezzo, on Calle Casas de Campos, just off the Plaza de Poetas. Their pizzas and fresh pastas will energize you for more discovery.
If you’re in the mood for a brewed beverage, make your way to El Rincón del Cervecero. This place has a fantastic collection of international, craft, and artisanal beers not available in other bars and pubs. They also conduct workshops for aspiring homebrewers.
For something traditional with the best city views, you must visit the Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro. Paradores is a public company servicing the Spanish tourism industry. They offer palatial accommodations, usually attached to a historic site, for a less than palatial budget. They’re an incredibly inexpensive way to absorb the city’s surroundings, typically from up above. Adjacent to the Gibralfaro Castle, enjoying a meal at this parador’s Restaurante El Mirador del Mediterráneo is like dining in the clouds.
Málaga for culture cultists
If Catalunya has Salvador Dalí and his clever surrealism, then Andalucia has Picasso, Málagan born and synonymous with the Cubist movement. The 50th anniversary of Picasso’s death takes place in 2023, and there are sure to be commemorative events taking place. If you’ve got a penchant for Picasso, follow his footsteps with a special walking tour through his birthplace.
Málaga also has numerous museums including the Flamenco Museum, Museo Carmen Thyssen Málaga, and Picasso’s all within the historic downtown. If you’ve ever been to Paris, you’ve seen The Centre Pompidou, its fountain, and bizarre industrial-sculpture-like museum structure. Well, Málaga has one, too. This colorful glass cube is at the base of Paseo de la Farola. South of the Centre is a number of bars and restaurants, complete with an astounding view of the Malagueta beach. Just a smidge farther down the pier is la Farola de Málaga, the city’s lighthouse. Placed surreptitiously between concrete cubes, on the east side of the promenade’s end is the quirky Cubo di Rubik.
Málaga’s intoxicating outdoors
If you’re looking for an outdoor adventure, Málaga is the town. Take a hiking excursion through Montes de Málaga Natural Park, whose waterfalls during the rainy season are nothing short of majestic.
There are also a few dozen urban parks that are worth your attention. One is Málaga Park, with divine promenades through lush gardens. This park was designed in a similar style as riad gardens seen in the palaces mentioned above.
Málaga also has a botanical garden, Jardín Botánico Histórico – La Concepción, brimming with all sorts of flora.
But the real main event is the sandy beaches… with almost year-round sunshine, Málaga’s beaches are something else. These beaches earn a blue flag rating, Europe’s highest in quality, nearly every year. With excellent service, restaurants at the ready, and clean water, these beaches will meander their way into your heart. Playa de la Malagueta, Playa Pedregalejo, and Playas del Palo are among Málaga’s most popular.
Andalusia’s whimsical wine country
If you’re a wine enthusiast, this is the perfect place to end your Andalusian journey. More than 3,000 years ago, the Phoenicians founded Cádiz and planted Spain’s first vines. This wine region is the first of any significance in Spain. You’ll find varieties of manzanilla, moscatel, sherries, vermouths, brandies, and sweet wines in the region. These wines are classified as aperitif or digestif; the bottle is not meant to be drunk in one sitting. These wines are aromatic and robust with a high alcohol content, making them quintessentially Spanish.
You can spend weeks traveling through Andalusia’s wine country alone; an eternity. Tour companies try to give you a taste of the area. While these companies explore some wineries, city tours are often rushed and the tastings are mediocre. This area deserves more of your time. Indulge in the essence of this wine region. For instance, you can choose to discover the Sherry Triangle, and delve into its wealth of aperitifs and sipping wines.
Journey to the center of Jerez de la Frontera
Known locally as Jerez, this quirky outpost is an oenophile’s city. Jerez de la Frontera’s compact historic village makes getting around on foot effortless. Several wineries are within walking distance from the historic center, and most are open to the public for tastings. But first, find a local pub, unwind, and enjoy the wines you taste there. Then, if you still have your wits about you, why not tour the bodegas you find along the way?
For a delightful escapade into the nuance of sherry wines, sign up for the Tio Pepe experience. Their front door sits mere steps from the Alcázar de Jerez, also a worthwhile visit. Tio Pepe is renowned for their sherries, brandies, and vermouths. In fact, you’ve probably seen the brandy Lepanto sold at your local wine shop in the US. Wine lovers compare this sipping wine to its French cousin, Cognac, with its delectable taste and alcohol content. However, discerning wine drinkers can tell the difference.
An equally luscious experience is touring and tasting the wines at Bodegas Lustau. Here, you’ll learn about their special 125th Anniversary Collection that includes a manzanilla, amontillado, and the añejo sherry vintages.
Visit Andalucia.com, their tourism bureau’s website, for details.
